It’s funny how many cities feature a challenging climb on their must-do lists, from the Sydney Harbor Bridge to Arthur’s Seat in Edinburgh. But one destination stands above all others in the ascension stakes: Vancouver and its infamous “Grouse Grind.” Nicknamed “Mother Nature’s Stairmaster,” the lung-busting Grind is a notoriously steep hike — 2,600 feet of vertical ascent in just 1.55 miles — up the face of Grouse Mountain on the city’s northern outskirts.
Despite the steep gradient, completing the Grind is a milestone for both visitors and locals, with the fittest Vancouverites even using it as a weekly workout. Professional athletes train here year-round — on foot and on skis — while Hollywood celebrities often make appearances during film shoots. Among them are Ryan Reynolds, Russell Crowe and Matt Damon, and they’ll likely be joined by a who’s who of soccer stars when the World Cup comes to town this June. The trail is open seasonally for hiking from May to October.
Encouraged by the fact that roughly 800 people attempt the Grouse Grind each day, I lace up my trail shoes to join the clambering masses during a summer visit to British Columbia. The first thing to note about the climb is that it truly earns its nickname. The route to the summit involves 2,830 “steps,” some so tall that you need to use your hands. In comparison, the Empire State Building is a challenging climb at 1,860 steps, but they’re all nice and even.
The trail was carved out of the hill’s southwest face by mountaineers in the early 1980s and begins gently enough, despite the ominous red sign warning: “Challenging! Steep Terrain. Rough, Uneven Trail Surface!” The ascent is neatly divided into four quarters, with most beginners reaching the top in around two hours (the current record is a frankly ridiculous time of 23:48).
The first quarter is genuinely enjoyable, as three friends and I hike the trail through a swaying, sun-dappled forest. But the conversation tapers off as we approach the halfway point. Soon, all chatter is replaced by panting as the path becomes a vertical onslaught.
Like Mount Everest (and it feels that way during the third quarter), the Grouse Grind has faced complaints about too many climbers. It is undeniably busy this summer morning of my visit, yet I find the constant presence of fellow climbers strangely calming. Red, puffy faces nod encouragement as we pass; others share candy and glucose tablets. The strongest hikers mutter words of solidarity and commiseration in equal measure as they breeze past us.
The final quarter, where the trail becomes an uneven scramble over rock, mud and roots, is the toughest of all, acknowledged by another official warning sign: “We Didn’t Say This Was Going To Be Easy!” By now, though, the path isn’t the only thing that’s breathtaking. As the gnarled trail twists upward, the trees give way to tantalizing glimpses of the view beyond. Beneath us, ocean-fringed Vancouver glimmers in all its metropolitan grandeur.
When we finally break out of the forest and spot the gondola station of Grouse Mountain Resort, my thighs are screaming and my calves feel like rubber. I collapse at the top of the Grind, pulse still racing, to drink in the views of Mount Baker to the southeast and Vancouver Island to the west. We’ve made it to the top in a respectable 98 minutes — not bad for a group of untrained out-of-towners. To celebrate, we settle down with beers in hand, quickly followed by some well-earned burgers.
Hiking back down the mountain is prohibited, so after another beer (purely for recovery purposes), we head for the gondola. Floating above Vancouver’s sea-to-sky panorama during the ride back down feels even sweeter now that we’re fully-fledged Grinders. At least until someone points out that we could have simply taken the cable car up in the first place.
Where to Stay
While exploring Vancity, an ideal base is Embarc Vancouver. This sleek, modern resort is in a prime, walkable location at the heart of the action and has cozy condo-style Suites in multiple configurations. What truly sets it apart, though, is its extensive list of amenities, including on-site dry cleaning, an indoor lap pool, a fitness center and a hot tub.
At Embarc Vancouver, enjoy great city views before setting foot on the mountain
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