As soon as the engine cuts, so does all conversation on our open boat. At the bow, a wiry lookout sits cross-legged, shielding his eyes against the tropical sun as he scans the waves. Then, without sound or ceremony, he suddenly slips into the water — just as an enormous dorsal fin breaks the surface. Baja California Sur, the sun-drenched golden arm hanging to the left of Mexico’s torso, is one of the best places in the world to swim with the world’s biggest fish: the whale shark. Between October and April every year, these behemoths traverse the calm and warm Sea of Cortez — a body of water so bountiful that French explorer Jacques Cousteau lovingly dubbed it “the world’s aquarium.”
The difference between this and an actual aquarium, of course, is that the whale sharks remain wild: gliding up and down the Baja peninsula while scooping up plankton via their enormous, open mouths. Rarely do these gentle deep-sea leviathans come so close to shore, making this one of the most popular spots for tourists to swim with them.
Most whale shark tour operators are based out of the marina at La Paz, the region’s charming capital. I sign up with one of the best, Onboard Baja, for my firsthand experience with these gentle giants.
After meeting my guides and fellow swimmers at the marina (each boat is restricted to five guests and the entire experience is pleasingly well-policed, to avoid unnecessary stress on the animals), I’m given a wetsuit, snorkel and flippers and we motor out toward the whale shark feeding grounds. It’s a mere 20-minute ride from La Paz, but in that time, we stop twice at official checkpoints with our captain radioing ahead for permission to proceed.
Once we’re in position, our spotter shuffles to the boat’s tiny prow and our big fishing expedition begins. When a fin is sighted, he slips eel-like into the water and swims smoothly to the spot, raising one arm high in the air. Our job is then to reach him as quickly as possible, picking up the whale shark’s slipstream en route like a surfer catching a wave.
After meeting my guides and fellow swimmers at the marina (each boat is restricted to five guests and the entire experience is pleasingly well-policed, to avoid unnecessary stress on the animals), I’m given a wetsuit, snorkel and flippers and we motor out toward the whale shark feeding grounds. It’s a mere 20-minute ride from La Paz, but in that time, we stop twice at official checkpoints with our captain radioing ahead for permission to proceed.
Once we’re in position, our spotter shuffles to the boat’s tiny prow and our big fishing expedition begins. When a fin is sighted, he slips eel-like into the water and swims smoothly to the spot, raising one arm high in the air. Our job is then to reach him as quickly as possible, picking up the whale shark’s slipstream en route like a surfer catching a wave.
It’s natural human instinct to avoid enormous creatures (whale sharks can reach an incredible 60 feet), no matter how many times the logical part of your brain says it’s safe. But whale sharks are famously passive and, once you’ve defused that primal instinct, the whole experience becomes very serene, very quickly. Essentially, it’s about staying calm and maintaining pace for as long as possible: holding your position in what is basically the whale shark’s armpit, in a manner not dissimilar to a toddler trying to catch a speeding double-decker bus. You don’t need to be a good swimmer either; your flippers and the shark’s natural wake do most of the work. All you need to do is keep up as best you can while avoiding the massive swishing tail.
As I swim alongside, I marvel at the giant’s white-speckled body and an eager entourage of pilot fish, look deep into its fist-sized eye and wonder at both its palpable enormity and my insignificance. We maintain this synchronous, dreamlike flow for what feels like an hour, but is actually three to four minutes, before I’m finally left behind in the luminescent tide.
For the rest of our three hours, we repeat the same beautiful dance with these beasts of the deep — taking turns to swim in tandem with them for as long as we can, before returning to the boat and catching our breath, waiting for another opportunity at underwater companionship. The whole experience is both hypnotic and humbling.
It’s natural human instinct to avoid enormous creatures (whale sharks can reach an incredible 60 feet), no matter how many times the logical part of your brain says it’s safe. But whale sharks are famously passive and, once you’ve defused that primal instinct, the whole experience becomes very serene, very quickly. Essentially, it’s about staying calm and maintaining pace for as long as possible: holding your position in what is basically the whale shark’s armpit, in a manner not dissimilar to a toddler trying to catch a speeding double-decker bus. You don’t need to be a good swimmer either; your flippers and the shark’s natural wake do most of the work. All you need to do is keep up as best you can while avoiding the massive swishing tail.
As I swim alongside, I marvel at the giant’s white-speckled body and an eager entourage of pilot fish, look deep into its fist-sized eye and wonder at both its palpable enormity and my insignificance. We maintain this synchronous, dreamlike flow for what feels like an hour, but is actually three to four minutes, before I’m finally left behind in the luminescent tide.
For the rest of our three hours, we repeat the same beautiful dance with these beasts of the deep — taking turns to swim in tandem with them for as long as we can, before returning to the boat and catching our breath, waiting for another opportunity at underwater companionship. The whole experience is both hypnotic and humbling.
Where to Stay
Baja California Sur is rightly celebrated for its beaches, seafood and reliable sunshine. Making La Pacifica Los Cabos, a Hilton Club or Cabo Azul, A Hilton Vacation Club your base gives you access to all of these, as well as the glitzy bars, restaurants and boutiques of Los Cabos. Both resorts have stunning oceanside settings with beach cabanas and stunning pools. Many of the stylish Suites have sea views, too.
Cabo Azul, a Hilton Vacation Club is a luxurious home away from home in Los Cabos
Explore unique adventures with Hilton Grand Vacations.
Visit bluegreenowner.com or club.hiltongrandvacations.com to book now!
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